Page of Amherst A. Alden’s journal.

September 28, 1847,

Left Duxbury at 10 o’clock AM.  My birthplace; the town where I have always resided, left all friends, acquaintances, my home, to make my abode in the far West.  There is a feeling upon leaving home which no pen can describe, “there is no place like home.”

Thus begins the journal of 15 year-old Duxbury native Amherst A. Alden (1832-1909) as he embarked on his journey to Illinois.  At the time Amherst left Duxbury there was little to keep an educated young man at home. The decline of the town’s great shipbuilding era left scant employment other than the ill-paid and laborious work of shoemaking. Luckily the United States was full of places a man of ambition could make his mark.  Many moved to Boston (see previous blog post about Eugene Sampson), some went to sea and others followed the country’s manifest destiny and went west.

Prior to leaving Duxbury in the fall of 1847, Amherst was presented a journal by his neighbor, Ann Thomas Porter, the wife of the local doctor, John Porter. His travels to the “far west” took him through western New England, down the Erie Canal, and eventually to Pekin, Illinois where he became employed as a teacher.  He diligently recorded his day’s activities every evening until the book was complete on April 19, 1848.  It is a wonderful look into daily life in Illinois during this period – names, places and events are recorded that would be of interest to anyone whose ancestors founded the towns of Pekin or Tremont.  Also fascinating are his use of exclamations such as “Oh Scissors” and “My Conscience.”

After only a year in Illinois Amherst made his way back to Massachusetts.  He became the private secretary to Daniel Webster and then a clerk in the Boston Post Office.  In 1853 he married Georgina Cook, the daughter of a shipwright. They had one child, Jennie. The family split their time between Duxbury (366 Washington Street) and Boston.  Amherst A. Alden died in 1909 and is buried in Mayflower Cemetery in Duxbury.

The following is the complete transcription of his diary:

Sept. 28, 1847

I left Duxbury at 10 o’clock AM My birthplace; the town where I have always lived, left all friends, acquaintances, my home to make my abode in the far West. There is a feeling upon leaving home which no pen can describe. “There’s no place like home.” Home, it is the paradise of infancy, the refuge of old age. What associations, what recollections cluster around it? But to go on. I arrive at Quincy at 12 N. Remained there one night.Sept. 29, 1847

Sept. 29, 1847

Beautiful morning. Left Quincy for Boston at 12. I stopped in Boston until 4 PM. Took the cars for Springfield, and arrived there at 8 o’clock PM. Stopped there until next morning. Springfield is fast growing to become a city, it has an enterprising population consisting of about 9,000 souls. It is situated about 70 miles West from Boston.

Sept. 30, 1847

Very little rain in the morning. Left Springfield at 8 1/2 AM and arrived at Greenbush opposite Albany at 2 PM. Left there immediately for Troy, arrived there in 1/2 hour. Troy is a fine place containing about 20,000 inhabitants. Streets are rather muddy, and to add to their pleasantness hogs are constantly running about. The streets are not very wide but are regularly layed out. Left Troy for Schenectady at 6 1/2 PM. Arrived there at 7 3/4. Schenectady is a beautiful place: wide streets, regularly layed out. I did not have a chance to view the place as I wished as I immediately left for Rochester by canal. Travelled all night, rather slow travelling.

Oct. 1, 1847

Stormy day. We pass through a beautiful country, splendid scenery. Think of old Duxbury occasionally. Get somewhat acquainted with a gentleman from Illinois, Mr. Francis H. Bond, formerly from Massachusetts. PM – very pleasant traveling; pass some very handsome places. Arrive at Utica at 6 PM. Exchange boats. Rather better accommodations, larger boat; travel alright.

Oct. 2, 1847

Beautiful morning. Pass through a delightful portion of the country. Do not feel quite so homesick as I did yesterday. Arrive at Syracuse at 9 3/4 AM. Change boats. Smaller boat. Syracuse is a very handsome place, pop. 11,000. At 10 1/2 o’clock I stood upon the border of the Lake Oneida. One of the most beautiful sheets of water I ever beheld. There it lay, calm, pure, serene, as it’s Maker. PM Tired to death of traveling on a canal boat. Feel unwell. Wish I was at home. 5 o’clock, pass through Montezuma. Had a jolly time there. Saturday night, well here I am still on this dismal canal boat. Women make such a hurrah by their confounded nonsense that it is hard to tell whether you are in a civilized country or not.

Oct. 3, 1847

Sunday. Pleasant morning. Heavy frost last night. Still on board the canal boat. Pass through the village of Buston [?]: handsome buildings, country, level. Arrive at Rochester at 10 AM. Large flouring establishments. 3 PM pass through the pleasant town of Brockport. There is a large academy in this place. Arrive at Holley at 4 1/2 PM. Now at my uncle’s.

Oct. 4, 1847

Monday. Beautiful morning. Remain in Holley. Glad to get on shore again where I can turn around. Took a walk in to the village. Holley is quite a pleasant little village situated abut 25 miles east from Buffalo. Most of it’s inhabitants are moving farther West. Attend a singing school in the evening kept by a Mr. Marsh. One of the best singers & performers on the violin that I ever heard. Heard the songs: The tomb of Washington, & My Ocean Home. Splendid pieces of music. Singing held in the Orthodox church. Not much regard paid to religion here. All kinds of liquors sold here on the Sabbath.

Oct. 5, 1847

Tuesday. Remain in Holley still. Today I was strongly solicited to drink a glass of wine, which I of course refused. And immediately gave him who offered it a STRONG SPEECH on the evil tendencies of spiritous liquors upon such susceptible youths as him and myself.

Oct. 6, 1847

Still in Holley. May cousin very unwell. Think of leaving soon for Buffalo.

Oct. 7, 1847

Cloudy in morning, looks like rain. Tomorrow I leave Holley for my destined port of Pekin.

Oct. 8, 1847

Left Holley with a heavy heart. Left my friends, my sick cousin whom I never expect to see again on earth. Now I am among strangers, no familiar faces present themselves, no friend speaks to me. I am getting farther every day from the scenes of my childhood.

Oct. 9, 1847

We have got on the slowest old horses that can be imagined. Going at the astonishing rate of 2 miles an hour. If this isn’t discouraging. I should like to send these horses home to be used in some of our Duxbury funeral processions. They might be too slow for that use however. Travelled about 4 miles last night. Getting on surprisingly. I am rather ? whether or no we shan’t get to Buffalo before we know it. Railroads are not a circumstance nor never was. Arrive at Medina at 10 AM. Very pleasant day. Arrive at Lockport at 3 PM. Very pretty place. 7000 inhabitants. Here the canal descends by 5 locks something like a hundred feet. Find buildings, wide streets but muddy. Hogs in abundance running about.

“How pleasant is Saturday night when I’ve tried all the week to be good;

not spoken a word that was bad, but obliged every one that I could.” [poem written by Nancy Denis Sproat (1766-1826)].

Oct. 10, 1847 Sunday

Arrive at Buffalo at daylight much to he gratification of myself and other passengers. I immediately went on board the steamer James Madison which was to leave for Chicago yesterday but owing to the heavy gales did not. We had all kinds of people on board. Yankees, Englishmen, Frenchmen, Germans & worse than all, confounded Dutchmen. We had a piano on board. I hear as I sit a brass band playing the familiar tunes of Old hundred, The Lord is my Shepherd, Lucy Neil, etc. It recalls to my mind recollections of home. But, Alas! I am far, far from home & will endeavor to drown all thoughts of it. It does not seem like Sunday here. All confusion, stores open, bowling saloons in operation, drunkenness, cursing, swearing going on. Lake Erie is very rough. We sail from Buffalo at 1 PM. I am very seasick as well as most of the other passengers. Find day. Cool upon the lake. Pop. of Buffalo 22,000.

October 11, 1847 Monday AM

I did not sleep much last night on account that a number of bed bugs had taken possession of my stateroom before me. I was greatly annoyed by one large one who made such an outrageous noise by clattering of his hoofs when running about over my head that is was impossible to think of wrapping myself in profound slumber. Accordingly this morning we got a tackle fall rigged to the engine and by means equal to 150 horse power succeeded in getting on to the deck where he was knocked in the head by the carpenter (he being the bravest man on board) and one of the hind quarters sent to James K Polk as a token of old acquaintance. It weighed 225 lbs. I trust that to night I shall sleep sound. Helen Mary Blaine sung and played by a young lady on board this morning. Sounded natural. Arrived at Erie (Penn) at 3 o’clock. Stayed here some time. Erie is finely situated on an emergence of about 5 feet above the Lake. Well built, etc. etc. Left here at 1 PM Lake not quite so rough as it was yesterday. Not sick today. Arrive at Grand River at the town of Fairport at 9 1/2 PM. Went on shore. Went into quite a number of Groceries, tried to find some fruit, none to be had.

October 12, 1847 Tuesday

Arrive at Cleaveland at 12 o’clock. Rather rough, very bad storm. 11 o’clock in sights of the Canadian shore, quite smooth. Enter Detroit River at 1 1/2 PM. Rain. Beautiful prospect on shore. View at the fort and garrison of the British. See a horse race. Arrive at Detroit at 4 PM. Flourishing city. Neat public buildings, wide streets. Visited a music store, came across a splendid violin. Had quite a jolly time here. Layed here all the evening. Got some apples, peaches, grapes & have quite a number of passengers get off here. My friends Paul & Crofts among others.

October 13, 1847 Wednesday

AM Cool.  Pass up St. Clair River and Lake.  Squally.  Beautiful prospect.  Put in at a port on the river.  Stop some time.  The Niagara arrives.  A most scandalous array comes off here.  Went on board the Niagara.  Splendid boat, highly finished.  Snow squall. PM wind rises.  Cold rain & hail.  Enter Lake Huron at 4, quite smooth.  Make great progress on Huron, until midnight when we are obliged to put back 40 miles into Port Sarnia Canada.

October 14, 1847 Thursday

Very cold morning.  Heavy front last night.  Well here we are in Canada again.  See a company of indians. Went on shore into a number of stores.  Left here (Port Sarnia) at 10 AM.  Try to get a brig off that was washed ashore last night in the gale. Very rough, high wind.  Got my violin out of my trunk had some music and mirth.  I’ll bet Our R? officer pretty well conned last night.

October 15, 1847 Friday

AM Quite cool.  Now crossing Lake Huron.  Out of sight of land for the first time in my life.  Wind rises.  Feel as if I should to be at home.  Grows cold.  Quite an army of babies on board.  Plenty of liquor. 12 N Close in to Thunder Bay Island.  Beautiful scenery on shore shore.  Very pleasant.  8 PM Pass the Manitou light house.  Arrive at Mackanaw at 9 1/2.  Go on shore.  The in dans assemble here annually to receive the pay from government.  Pop 700.   Pass up the straits of Mackanaw into Lake Michigan.

October 16, 1847 Saturday

AM Very rough.  Not well.  Homesick.  Most of the passengers sick. 2PM arrive at North Manitouline.  This island consists about 6 dwelling houses, 1 store.  It is the most dreary, lonely & inhospitable places I ever been or read of.  The indians have a religious superstition in regard to this Island.  The word Great Spirit comes from Manitou.  The steamer Empire arrived also a propeller.  Lake Michigan very rough so that no boat could live upon it.  Evening. Not very well.  Saturday night comes round again. O! dear.  Well “How pleasant is Saturday night” comes into my mind.  Tired to death of steamboat life.  Never like to get to Chicago.  More passengers get on board here.  Confounded squalling of young ones enough to take a fellows head off.  Fairly disgusted with the sight of spirituous liquors.  Our  R? officer get off last night.

October 17, 1847 Sunday

Leave Manitouline early in the AM.  Very rough with head winds.  Got some more informal outlandish  men on board.  Troubled with the tooth ache.  Feel savage as a meat axe.  Sunday comes again bringing with it strong recollections of home.  Evening.  Very rough. Heavy gale all hands sick.  I wish some of my Duxbury friends were here to see the men, women & chairs tumbling about, rolling over the floor.  We are now in one of the heaviest gales ever experienced by man.  Tonight we retire not knowing whether we shall wake up in the morning & find ourselves at the bottom of the Lake or safe on board.  12 midnight.  We are obliged to anchor on account of some accident in the machinery.

October 18, 1847 Monday

8 AM arrive at Sheboygan one of the most beautiful places I have seen since I left home.  Situated on an eminence overlooking the harbor.  Pop 1500.  PM arrive at Milmarik at 4.  Large city pop 12,000.  Evening. Very  pleasant now.  Here as I sit on the taffrail of the steamer I look on the placid waters of the lake Michigan not a ruffle disturbs its calm bosom.   The moon rising in the far East is reflected back by the waters.  I am alone.  Around me all is confusion.  I hear the distant voice of a sailor in a brig afar on the Lake.  I know not scarcely what is passing around me.  My thoughts are far far away.  The Niagara comes into port.  She comes proudly around.  Lord of the lakes as she is.  My chum Mr. Allen S. Harris left here.  I feel lonesome now, I am much interested in him.

October 19, 1847

Arrive at Racine at 2 AM.  As I was wrapted in slumber, I did not have a chance to visit this place.

Arrive at Chicago at 8 1/2 AM much to the gratification of myself & others.  Chicago.  Fine city, regularly laid out, wide streets, muddy as fury.  Dirty hogs running about the streets. Stop at the City Hotel.  Chicago bigs fain to become one of the most important cities in our country.  It has a country back of it that cannot be surpassed by any in the world.  Find mu friend Wilson to whom I have a letter of introduction.  Also saw a young man who has been a pupil of Mr. Fuller my former teacher we had a jolly old time.  Museum in evening.  Heard an organ.  A person tried to grind something she called music out of it.  I had much rather hear a wheelbarrow that wants greasing.  The one that Geo Whitney carried a young lady to ride in for instance.  Well I retire early as I have to get to get up tomorrow morning at 3 o’clock & ride all day in the stage for my comfort.  Is not this high life?  “Speak ye who best can tell.”

October 20, 1847 Wednesday

AM Very cold.  Leave Chicago at 3 o’clock. Get into a small, cold, uncomfortable stage coach with nine inside passengers crowded almost to suffocation.  We rod 10 miles before breakfast.  Change horses.  Like to froze to death.  Arrive at the small town of Summit.  Get some breakfast, hungry enough.  If I did not walk into the affections of a beaf steak & Indian cake, then don’t talk to me of methodist preachers.  My Friend Mr. E. Herrick, a fellow passenger.  Arrive at xxxx at 9 1/2 change horses.  Not much of a place.  Put in steam again & arrive at xxx at 4 PM.  Quite a place 1500 inhabitants.  My friend Herrick gets off here.  Arrive at xxx at 7 cold, stormy. Change horses.  Arrive at Ottowa at midnight, change horses.

October 21, 1847
Arrive at Peru, the last place at 8 AM.  Get some breakfast.  Go on board a small steam boat for Pekin after almost being killed by riding 8 hours in stage.  Stop at small places not worthy of note.  The Illinois is a beautiful river.  The most splendid scenery I ever saw on its banks.  Ducks and geese in abundance.  This is the most pleasant part of my journey.  Feel rather unwell.  Last night my eyes were feasted with the rich sights of a prairie on fire lighting up the country for miles around while the moon coming up from another quarter gave sufficient light too read.  Became acquainted with a Mr. Edwin W. Somers of New York bound to Mississippi, a school teacher.  Arrive at Chllicothe at 7 1/2 PM.  Get to Peoria at 11.  Remain here all night. Very pretty place bids fair to become an important place, pop 2500.