“A Tour of Cape Cod in 1829”
By Lloyd Granville Sampson
July 19th of a Wednesday I set out for Cape Cod having had a strong profundity for a long time to visit the Cape and finding it consistent with my calling,
Wednesday, July 19th took the stage at the Widow C’s tavern (about 2 miles from the clam flats of D- and not a great distance from the well known “Tree of Knowledge” near the mansion house of One Mr. G -) I was the only passenger as far as P —h where we changed horses and carriage and after getting some necessary refreshments and a Spanish leaf in the shape of a cigar the coach was driven to the door of the “Old colony” and passengers called to take their seats. Two beside myself entered and the door was closed, the driver mounted his Box and with a crack of the whip he was off and so on left the “Pilgrim’s rack” some distance behind. The Gentleman that was on the same seat with myself was a Mr. Cobb (as I afterwards learnt in S—h) a merchant of Baltimore some concerned in the Sandwich and Boston Glass works located at S— where he was to stop for a week prior to his departure for B—-. The other passenger was Sir Isau Coffin’s coachman bound to Hyannis to take charge of the admiral’s horses in his absences to Nantucket. This is all I know of the coachman. I was not quite pleased with Mr. C—b for he was as a “fellow traveller” (sic) should be ready to tell a pleasing tale and to converse on any subject that was introduced. He was what may be properly called a Gentleman without casting one air on the term. We have now travelled about five miles through a thick woods and a sandy road in this distance I have not seen the roof of a house or barn no not even a man (save the inmates of the coach) nothing but a thick moor and a “cape cod” road have I seen for some time gone past.
About one o’clock the stage stoped (sic) at a little dwelling situated under a sand bank near to the water which makes a part of Sandwich bay and is what we folks call a public house. Mr. C—b and myself made way into the house where we ate a little – drank a little and smoked a little – then walked into the orchard, there found a bowling alley. Mr. C. rolled the first round and the pins fell a victim to his balls, next rolled a few rounds together. I got beat and had to pay the boy two York shillings for setting up the pins. Gentlemen the coach is ready was heard from the coachman and our company was once more shut up in the carriage. Half past one o clock before I got clear from this little swelling under the Sandbank I must tell of a pleasing person which waited at this place on the “stopper,” at the house. It was a young girl about 4 feet four inches tall measuring nearly the same about her waist of a fresh and blooming countenance, light blue eyes and flax colored hair, which was made up on the top of her head and fastened round with a string the tale (sic) of which hung down behind little less than twenty four inches. Her dress was a yellow petticoat made fast round her body some where far under her arms to her hips. Over this she wore a gray loose gown which extended as low as her hips (or where her hips ought to be) this was made quite “low in the neck” which gave a fair view of her pretty neck. She wore no stockings. Her feet were in a pair of shoes, about the size which would take a side of leather to make and at every step she would show a small piece of her leg and quite all her ankle. I can say no more of this pretty country lass.
We rode about four miles from the cottage in the woods and came out on a more publick road leading to N-B F-h and glad was I that we had got through the thick woods of P-h. We drove on at the rate of about six miles to the hour and at three o’clock stoped (sic) (again) at T—s in the pretty little village of S—h. With this place I was much pleased as to its appearance. There are three meeting houses – Academy and a little town house standing quite near together. The dwelling houses are mostly of two and three stories high and painted with much taste. After getting some dinner we again took the stage for B-e, (Mr C-b proceeded no farther) a distance of twelve miles. Here we took in two more Gentlemen which with the coachman together make four.) (That is if two & two when put together make four.) One of those Gents I call a shoe-maker. The other I should think was a “hor-buck.” Otherwise a driver of cattle – from the time I entered the coach in S till I was in B-e not a word did come out of my mouth, for I paid all attention to the conversation between this shoe-maker and the “hor-buck” which was quite diverting. We arrived at B-e at ½ past 6 o’clock. Stoped (sic) at “Aunt Sallys” Crockery Hotel. Quite a good house – some company there from Boston – got supper and called on Miss Abb B—n. Fine – good girl – was much supprised (sic) to see me in that sandy country – spent the evening with her in lively chit-chat, had her a good evening (promising to call in the morning) and soon found myself again at “Aunt Sally’s” took a 9 o’clock supper and retired quite fatigued from my long ride. So ended the first day of my absence from D-y.
Thursday July 30. Went below stairs eight o’clock. Bacon, eggs &c for breakfast after which I walked into the portico. There introduced myself to two Gentlemen from Boston – young fellows – both married a short time since – have no children – one a Mr. Wilson the other a Mr. Cook. After sitting a few moments walked into the parlour with Mr. Wilson and was made acquainted with his wife and Mrs. Cook – pretty fair ladies – Mrs Cook quite handsome. ½ past ten put on a clean richard and called on Miss A-y B-n spent a short hour with her after which she favoured me with her company and we called at D-d C-s Esq was very prettily received by the Esquire and his family, sat a few moments and their minister Mr. H-y was introduced into the room – a very pressing invitation to dine – refused – rose took my hat and was off – directly for “Aunt Sall’s” hot sheep roasted for dinner – pretty good – Two o’clock p.m. received complimentary to spend the afternoon at the squires – quite pleasing – 4 o’clock got ready and proceeded to business found a room full of Ladies and Gentlemen (most of the former) Some of the ladies quite handsome – spent the afternoon much to my satisfaction – after Tea. F-k (a son of the squires just from college) Miss A-y B-n and myself went to ride to Y-h called and spent the evening with Miss Reed here Miss A-y B-n has a sister a visiting. Was much pleased with Miss Reed – more so than any Lady I met with in my tour. She favoured the company with many beautiful airs on the piano to which she added her charming voice. We all left her house at 9 o’clock. Miss A-y B-n rode with myself. F-k and miss A-y B-n’s sister (Hellen) rode “one with the other” got back to B-e ten o’clock – left the Ladies at their homes then proceeded for “Aunt Sally’s” and retired to my chamber. Thus ends the 2 day of my tour.
July 31st. Breakfast 8 o’clock. The morning passed off in conversation with the Ladies quite pleasing. 10 o’clock received a call from Mr. H-y. I “likes to see him cause” he looks so much as an acquaintance of his that I once saw, he smoked a Spanish leaf with me and at half past eleven left the house. Soon after received a call from the squire. 2 o’clock called to dinner – had roast pig, on the cloth – fine looking fellow. Mr. C—k refused to carve likewise Mr. W—n also one other Gentleman – do not know his name just arrived “in town” from the City. So I takes the knife and after giving it a few passes across the steel commenced the attack upon the little fellow and soon laid the “bigger half” of him in a position he never before found himself. 3 o’clock a horse and chaise was sent to the door for me – got my fix on and rode down to Miss A—y B—n took her in to the chaise rode back as far as the squires. Received F—k and H—n. Rode over to the south side of the Cape to a small place called Hyannis from hence to Hyannis port. Called at Capt A—n S—d “took tea” after which rode back to B—e left Miss A—y had her a good evening – then called at the squires, bid them a good by” and made my course good once more for “Aunt Sally’s” , settled my bill of fair (sic). Took supper and retired to my bed chamber. Got all ready for a start for home then crawled under the blanket and was soon asleep. So ends July with me and the 3rd day of my tour.
August 1st. ½ past two o’clock was called by Aunt Sally to prepare for the stage which would call for me in thirty minutes. Got up. Drank a cup of coffee. Then placed myself in the stage and was off – the only passenger as far as Sandwich where the coach was filled with Gentlemen and Ladies. 8 O’clock passengers called to take their seats and as the day was pleasant and the Ladies having husbands or intended ones with them I took a seat in the Box with the coachman in preference to be a silent g—n within the coach and rode as far as Plymouth where she stopt a few moments then took the stage for Duxbury. Rode about ¼ of a mile and met Daniel going in to Plymouth to leave Mr. Binny who requested me to go back and take a seat in his chaise and return to Duxbury with him which offer I readily complied with and at 4 o’clock left for home and arrived at half past five o’clock. So ends my Tour to Cape Cod and back to D—y much to my satisfaction.
August 1st 1829 L—y-d